A Ferret as a Pet: What You Need to Know Before You Start
, by Michael van Wassem, 7 min reading time
, by Michael van Wassem, 7 min reading time
Everything about keeping a ferret as a pet: character, diet, housing, care and health. Fidello's complete beginner's guide.
Suddenly a sock is missing, the remote control is under the sofa, and a strange clucking sound is coming from the corner of the room. Anyone living with a ferret for the first time quickly discovers that this is not a cuddly pet that stays quietly in a corner. Keeping a ferret can be great fun, but it calls for different knowledge than a dog, cat or rabbit: ferrets have their own diet, their own smell and their own way of exploring the world. This guide sets out what a ferret actually is, what it needs, and what to consider before bringing a ferret into your home.
A ferret (Mustela putorius furo) is not a rodent but a member of the mustelid family: related to the weasel, otter and badger. Ferrets have been domesticated for centuries and were originally used to chase rabbits out of their burrows, which explains their curious, digging character. They are intelligent, playful and social, and sleep a surprising amount: on average fourteen to eighteen hours a day. By nature, ferrets are most active at dawn and dusk, but most adapt their rhythm reasonably well to family life.
Ferrets are explorers through and through. They push their nose into every gap, dig in plant pots and baskets, and have a strong tendency to "steal" small items and hide them in a fixed spot: socks, jewellery, toys, almost anything goes. When excited, they make a clucking sound known as "dooking", often combined with a bouncy little dance around the room. Hissing or growling is usually a sign of fright or annoyance, not necessarily aggression. This playfulness is exactly why ferrets make so many owners smile, but it also means that a ferret gets bored and mischievous without enough distraction and exercise.
Like a cat, a ferret is an obligate carnivore: its digestive system is short and not suited to processing much plant fibre. Ferrets therefore need food that is rich in animal protein and fat, and low in carbohydrates. Specially formulated ferret food is designed for this and is the best basis; high-quality kitten food can serve as an alternative, but ferret food remains the better long-term choice. Only give fruit, vegetables and sweet treats occasionally, if at all: ferrets digest sugars and fibre poorly, and a diet high in sugar has been linked to a higher risk of insulinoma, one of the best-known health problems in older ferrets. Fresh water should always be within reach.
A ferret needs a spacious, multi-level cage as a fixed base, but the cage on its own is never enough: expect to provide several hours of supervised free playtime outside the cage every day. Start by making the room your ferret is allowed to roam in "ferret-proof": seal gaps and holes, put away small rubber or foam objects (a known choking hazard for ferrets), and watch out for reclining sofas and armchairs, in which ferrets can hide and become trapped. For the exact dimensions and set-up of a ferret cage, see our dedicated guide on housing for small pets and ferrets; the general rule here is: the bigger and the more roaming space, the better.
Ferrets usually shed heavily twice a year and otherwise need little coat care: occasional brushing is enough. Nails need regular trimming, and ears should be checked periodically for dark wax build-up. A ferret's musky body odour is normal and comes not only from the anal glands but also from oil glands in the skin; don't bathe your ferret too often, as this washes away the protective skin oils and can actually make the smell stronger over time. Surgically removing the scent glands without medical necessity is restricted or not permitted in many countries; spaying or neutering, on the other hand, noticeably reduces the smell and is often recommended by vets for behavioural and health reasons as well.
The most important health measure for a ferret is vaccination against canine distemper: ferrets are exceptionally susceptible to it, and the disease is almost always fatal in them. Have your ferret vaccinated by a vet experienced with ferrets, following the recommended schedule. If you travel with your ferret, a rabies vaccination may also be required. Older ferrets relatively often develop insulinoma (a tumour of the pancreas that disrupts blood sugar levels) and adrenal gland disease; symptoms such as lethargy, hair loss on the tail or changed behaviour are reasons to see a vet promptly.
Ferrets are social animals that need a lot of daily attention and interaction; a ferret that spends most of the day alone in a cage gets bored and can develop stressed or unhappy behaviour as a result. Many owners therefore choose to keep two ferrets together, so they can keep each other company during the hours no one is home. A ferret and a dog or cat can sometimes live together well, but only after a calm, supervised introduction, and never unsupervised at first. In principle, you should not combine a ferret with small rodents, rabbits or birds: a ferret's prey drive is too strong for that.
Still unsure after this checklist? Talk to an experienced ferret owner or a vet with ferret experience before making your decision.
A ferret is an intelligent, playful and social pet, but one with a distinct character and specific needs when it comes to diet, space and health. Anyone who can offer enough time, a ferret-proof home and access to an experienced vet will get in return an animal that's never boring. Looking for the right basic supplies for your ferret, such as ferret-specific food, bedding, a hammock or a spacious cage? Ask your local vet or specialist pet shop for advice on products suited to ferrets, and you'll be off to a flying start with your new housemate.